1. Introduction to Bálványos

Bálványos and it’s region is probably Transilvania’s most beautiful and popular place. It’s a natural reserve where you can find the Saint-Anna volcanic lake (“Szent Anna tó”, 979 meters, unique in Europe), the Mohos-swamp (1050 m) and the Torjai-Budos – cave.

The mineral waters, to start with. The dozens of mineral water sources scattered along the roads around Bálványos all have different names, taste and ingredients to remedy different health problems. Indications go from nerves to circulation and digestion issues... That is, they are good for almost Everything (a more detailed guide to them you will be able to find on the spot)….also your thirst ;)

In Balvanyos there has once stood a castle, the ruins of which are still to be seen today. Legend goes that there was a mean and rich man living there – with a mean and rich neighbour living on top of the neighbouring mountain. There was an extreme rivalry between the two, so when the lord of Balvanyos got 6 amazing horses from the king, it was his first trip to visit his neighbour and proudly laugh in his face. Lord nr. 2 was raging in gelously and in his endeavour to show better he had the demonic idea to catch the nicest girls of the nearby village in front of his carriage and go visit his neighbour like that. He tried to do it, but the nicest girl – Anna – said a prayer to the skies and as a result the whole mountain collapsed, along with the mean lord and his castle and turned into a nice lake, which is called until today the Saint Anna lake (and it is about 10 km from Balvanyos).

It is a beautiful place to swim in clear water in the midst of the forest, in a special bathing tub: the ancient volcano.

A second volcanic crater called „Mohos” hosts a terribly exciting place for biologists, as it conserved the vegetation of prehistoric times. Home of the bug-eating plant Drosera rotundifolia. Guided tours available.

At some places, healing vulcanic gases come to surface: such as the Stinky Cave (stinky because of the sulphur). Where below your knees the walls are green and you are not supposed to inhale of whatever is down there. But if you stand there at least 5 minutes you can feel your legs getting warmer... And the warmth going up and up... This is actually the natural form of the specific treatment places called „Mofetas”. These houses reproduce artificially what you have naturally in the Stinky Cave: you have to sit or stand in a place where volcanic gases gather around your feet. Normally next to them there are small mineral water pools... Which have a suspicious colour and are amazingly cold. ...Only for the brave ones.

Some centuries after the castles collapsed in Balvanyos a lungs sanatorium was built: the surrounding forests and waters make this an ideal place to recover or just to relax.

Nowadays (that is, around 20 years ago), in a commercial world, this sanatorium has been transformed into a hotel. It is being renewed as we speak – you might be the first visitors in the newly designed rooms.

You can book a room in the “Best Western Grand Hotel Balvanyos”* (on its official name) directly via its manager, Attila Joos: attilajoos@gmail.com Feel free to ask him for more information. Indicative price is 67 euros a night for a double room, but we might get some discount depending on the number of rooms we book. Please mention that you are coming for the wedding party of Andrea and Pieter.

*Yes, this is where the party will be on Saturday 17 July!

Another sleeping possibility is 3 km down the road: a panzió - pension (kind of bed and breakfast which serves lunch and dinner, too :) with traditional sekler dekor, waiters in sekler dresses and, of course, sekler food.

You can book a room in the “Var Panzio” via phone +40 741 077 903 (Erika) or e-mail dar@planet.ro . The e-mail is common for several guesthouses so please mention that you would like the one in Balvanyos. Prices are 25 euros for a double room and 45 euros for an “apartment” with four beds. Please mention that you are coming for the wedding party of Andrea and Pieter.

http://www.szekelyfoldiinfo.ro/Menu/Szallashelyek/Panziok/Balvanyos.html#Arak

And if you really want to feel close to nature, the Saint Anna camping is a possibility (around 10 km-ers further from the restaurant, but closest to the lake).

2 euros/day/tent, don’t really need to book, basic conditions.

Tel. +40 267 365357

And finally here is what Wikipedia says about Balvanyos: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balvanyos

2. Getting there

There are several possibilities, of which we would like to highlight two.

(Note: if you take a low-cost flight, you can combine the two options below: you can take one way to come and the other way to go back.)

2.1 Flying to Bucharest

You can fly relatively cheaply to Bucharest with Blueair: http://www.blueairweb.com/ (currently 30 euros a flight, all included)

An other low-cost airline going to Bucharest from Budapest (and also from Charleroi) is www.wizzair.com .

You can fly relatively elegantly to Bucharest with Tarom (from Brussels they have a joined flight with SN Brussels - though booking through the Tarom site is often cheaper).

http://www.tarom.ro/

You can live without seeing Bucharest, although you can take some hours to be horrified by the size of the Parliament and have a stroll in the peculiar atmosphere of the old center or one of the big nice parks. Otherwise it is busy and not particularly pleasant.

You can take a taxi from the airport directly to the North Train station (fair price approx. 10 euros/40 RON).

Some taxi numbers in Bucharest:

Taxi2000: 9494 or +40 722 94 94 94

Cobalcescu: 9451 or +40 723 399 451

Cristaxi: 9461 or +40 74 444 9461

(Although there are many taxis everywhere there is a good chance it will be much cheaper if you call your own cab.)

You have a direct train from the North Station to TUSNAD 3 times a day: at 13:00, 17:40 and 20:40.

You have a train to BRASOV every hour. (www.cfr.ro, www.diebahn.de )

We will be happy to pick you up either from BRASOV or from TUSNAD - in case you let us know when you arrive! [Andi: +40 741 044 267, Pieter: +32 486 202044]

+ON THE ROAD

The train ride is actually taking you through the Prahova valley which is one of the most visited places in the Carpathian Mountains. If you have one or two days you can stop for a hike and a city-visit.

One of the popular places is SINAIA. You can stop for a night here and visit the Peles Castle (scene of the movie: The Brothers Bloom).

Don’t miss to take one of the many well-marked hikes going either from the village or from the top of the cable car.

A historic city to visit on the road is BRASOV. Please refer to the attached travel guide for things to visit (there is 1 full or two relaxed days’ of things worth to see there). You can also find shuttles to BRAN, where the so-called “Dracula’s” castle is standing. (It was not really Dracula’s, but it is a nice castle.)

The closest place to Balvanyos is TUSNAD. Also a nice village in the forests with mineral waters, a lake and hikes.

2.2 Flying to Tirgu Mures/Marosvásárhely – via Budapest

You can fly relatively cheaply to Tirgu Mures with www.wizzair.com via Budapest (Taking wizzair you will have to make a night’s stop in Budapest.)

To fly fastest and get a free snack on the plane take www.malev.hu . You will still have to switch planes in Budapest but the connection is perfect. Moreover your bags go directly to Tirgu Mures.

From Budapest you can also take the traditional “Corona” (“Crown”) train – which is functioning probably since the Austro-Hungarian times on the same tracé. It goes directly until TUSNAD and lets you enjoy the landscape of the West Carpathians and the Maros river valley. Preferably from a sleeping cabin as it is a long ride… www.diebahn.de

Once got to TARGU MURES, you can have a look at art nouveau at its regional best.

You can take a train directly to TUSNAD – again a beautiful landscape on the Maros river valley.

ON THE ROAD

Most notably, there is BUDAPEST. A beautiful city well worth a visit. You can easily spend there two or three days, but a night out (or a night in the termal bath Rudas which is open all night in weekends) is also fun.

If you decide to rent a car (or minibus), you can see on the way several of the things listed below under the “Day trips” section: Sighisoara and Biertan with their medieval saxon fortress churches; the lake that is saltier than the sea in Sovata; sekler folk artists selling their stuff in Korond…

or – in the other direction via Georgheni/Gyergyó, the Killer Lake (Lacul Rosu) and the Altar Rock around it. (For more details ask us.)

Car rentals are a possibility – though you can also do without. Compared to Belgium renting a small car is a similar price, while renting a mini-bus might be comparatively cheaper.

Hotels are generally less expensive.

You can consult our friendly and nice travel agent for professional advice and arrangements: Melinda Bagoly, tel. , e-mail.

3. Daytrips around Bálványos

Note: if there will be enough interested candidates we can organize some of these together. Let us know if interested.

By foot

WALKS IN THE FOREST

From the hotel you can have easy walks to the surrounding landmarks. I recommend these routes for everybody (even kids), they aren’t difficult. It is good if you have a low-cut trekking shoe, but it isn’t necessary.

Route 9: Marked: yellow cross. Length: 7 km. Est.time: 1.5-2h

It starts from the hotel, and in the first few km-s it follows the asphalt road which leads to the Saint Anne lake. After that, it takes several shortcuts, and it ends at the Saint Anne lake refuge.

Route 11: Marked: red dot. Length: 1.5 km. Est.time: 45 min

It starts form the back of the hotel, and you can access the Torjai-Stinky cave. The cave itself contains sulfuric gases, watch out not to bend below 80 cm! You can enjoy a few minutes (max 10) in it, and try how the gases warm you up.

Route 12: Marked: blue dot. Length: 4 km round trip. Est.time: 2-3 h

On this round-trip you can explore several caves and landmarks (like the Bird-graveyard). Watch out not to enter the caves which aren’t accessible for tourists.

Route 13: Marked: red triangle. Length:1 km round trip. Est.time:30 min

It starts on the asphalt, until the first hairpin-corner of the road. From here you turn left and hike up to the “Baia Apor”, a cold mineral water pool. It’s made of wood, so it’s condition varies. The marking ends at the hotel.

Route 15: Marked: red cross. Length: 1.5 km. Est.time: 45 min

This is a “must-have” trip, it takes you to several mountain springs, and mineral-water pools.

For longer / more difficult hikes in the area, you can check the map in attachment or ask the advice of Andi’s brother András.

There are several mineral watered (Sulphuric tasted) mountain springs. These are showed and numbered (9,11,12,13,15) on the smaller map attached. The hotel is near the so-called Budos-hegy (Smelly mountain). The name comes from the sulphuric gases which escape from the ground (due to the vulcanic activity).

The Saint Anna lake and the Mohos swamp are definitely worth a visit – either on foot or with the help of a car.

If you would like to bike or horse-ride in the area several possibilities are offered as well – ask in the hotel / panzio. There will be a mini-bus available at the hotel and panzio.

By car (minibus)

Baile Tusnad – beautiful little town in the valley of the Olt river, with railway station (accessible from Bucharest!), good restaurants, and an outdoor, mineral water swimming pool. From the nearby peak (30 mins of easy uphill hike)Piatra Soimilor, you can see the whole valley – it’s beautiful!

From here you can hike up to the Saint Anne lake (Lacul Sf.Ana) as well following the red cross marking.

I try to group the surrounding sights into thematics.

SEKLER TOUR

In Balvanyos you are actually in the middle of the sekler region. Some focal points to discover: the village museum in Csernáton. If ever dreamed about quiet village life with simple crafts and tasks and pleasures, this museum gathers the best of sekler villages.

Kézdivasarhely is an interesting architectural hub, grown to a town from a crossroads market place. Its museum hosts an impressive doll collection. Visit the medieval, Unesco-protected church in nearby Gelence, where the original wall-paintings are almost intact.

The current center of the county is Saint George City. If you come here, you are up for a drink at Andi’s house in the middle of the town: Str. Oltului Nr. 5. Plus this town hosts the noteworthy Sekler Museum. (Oh, yes: seklers are the Hungarians living in this region.)

The sekler tour would not be complete if you wouldn’t taste the kürtőskalács – villagers are preparing and selling this goodie in front of their houses. If you are quite friendly you might get invited to a glass of szilvapálinka. I can’t explain what that is…

CASTLE TOUR

Yes, “Dracula’s” castle (or the castle of Bran) is not so far away (about 80 km). But no, Dracula does not have anything to do with anything – the castle is nice though, and thickly surrounded with souvenir shops, where, indeed, you can find Dracula in all its forms.

An interesting place on the way to the Bran castle is the saxon fortress church of Prejmer. If you are a bit lucky you can get the young and dynamic priest (ask for Andras Pall) to offer you an insight into the life of a saxon village in medieval times and the contemporary problems of a community scattered by emigration. (Also an Unesco protected sight.)

Brasov has been a commercial center since the middle ages and all through today. Its city center with its bastions, small streets and the Black Church is well worth a visit. There are high chances to find good restaurants here, not to mention the many pubs and bars.

If you have more than a day, you can continue down the Prahova valley and visit the castle of the last Romanian king: the Peles castle in Sinaia. As already mentioned, the Prahova valley is a good place for easy hikes: the cable cars can take you up top. Moreover, the Bugeci is a plateau –} once on top, always on top. You have marked walks here, nice views and few excessive climbs. There are mountain huts up there so you can also sleep on the mountain top.

One sleeping possibility in the nice valley Plaiul Foii (next to Zarnesti), overlooking the King’s Rock (one of Europe’s biggest wildlife reserves) is the Cabana Dianthus which is really in the middle of nature, has its own horse stable, equipment and guide for hikes, escalade, biking + good restaurant. Double rooms for 30 euros; 8 person apartment for 105 euros. Bear-peaking hikes (30 euros).

More info and reservations: cabanadianthus@yahoo.com; Tel. 0040-722-532968

But these already lead us to the “more than day-trips” category…

4. More than day-trips

TRANSFOGARAS

Introducing Andras, Andi’s brother, official tourist guide of the Students’ Union and the family’s sportsman. And a great connaisseur of the Fogaras Mountains.

My name is Andras Dombi, I’m Andrea’s brother and I’m 24 years old. Currently I’m studying dentistry, at the Medical and Pharmaceutical University in Targu Mures. Besides this I’m an amateur hiker, mountaineerer and cyclist (I was professional for 3 years).

For those who – before the wedding of Andrea&Pieter – would like to explore the most thrilling place in Romania, here is a recommendation.

Most people know the Transfagarasan highway from the Top Gear’s edition about it. If you haven’t seen it, here it is: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0YjkFD-i6w

As you’ve seen in the video, there are two parts of the highway – on the two sides of the Fagaras mountain: one southern (which is very-very bumpy, the road is in bad condition, a normal car is suitable for it, but the drinving speed should be low – 30-40km/h) and one northern, which is in a very good condition. It’s breathtaking:

By car

You can access this road from Sibiu county. On the E68 road between Scoreiu and Arpasu de Jos there is the turn on the DN7C road (you have to turn towards Cartiosoara). You can explore this section on maps.google.com by simply typing in “Scoreiu, Ro”.

On the “northern” section, on the way up you pass the Balea waterfall, which is on 1234 meters altitude, and it’s 68 meters tall. The top of the road is on 2034 meters. You should know, that on this altitude the weather is very unstable. The optimal weather usually is in the morning (if the sun is shining), until 12-1p.m. In the afternoon usually it’s foggy and rainy.

On 2034 meters there is the Balea Lake, which is one of the biggest glacier lakes in Romania.

The southern part of the road is “as pimply as a teenagers face”. So it’s in really bad condition. Despite this, it’s beautiful: you pass the Vidraru lake, and the Vidraru dam (which is an arch-dam, and it’s 166 meters tall). (You can see it for a glance in the first four seconds of the video.)

For those who are seeking for high adrenalin levels, there is a company which offers bungee-jumping on the dam – you have to book in advance (100 euro/jump): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjDQneqduGI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppAMjipuaC0

You can do all these roads easily with a rental car (rented from Bucharest or Targu Mures).

By bike

Which they don’t mention in the video, is that the northern section of the road is a biking heaven as well. I recommend this version for everybody, who knows how to ride a bike: you’ll have much more time to admire the beauty of the place, and – if the weather is nice – it’s a once in a lifetime experience.

From bottom to top there are 23 km-s of uphill riding, the road condition is flawless. For those interested, I can organize the trip. I have two bikes in my property (one racing bike, and one MTB), and I can manage the rental of the others – if needed. The rental prices are around 30 euros/bike, due to the top quality of the bikes (everybody needs a proper, high quality mountain or racing bike, fitted for him/her, with good brakes on it, because of the high speeds we can reach during the descending). Helmet is also mandatory and a cycling shoe is welcome, but can do without.

From Bálványos it is a two day trip (at least): first day we arrive to Cartisoara, and prepare our gear for the next day. The second day in the morning we start early (probably around 8 o’clock), and we begin the climb. For a beginner with NO training this takes usually (with an hour stop at the Balea waterfall) 4 to 5 hours. For trained people it can go faster.

Early afternoon we start the descend, and head back to Cartisoara. There we get into our car, and get back to Balvanyos until 8-9 p.m.

The price of this trip/person is: 30 euro (bike rental)

20 euro (3*** Hotel in Cartisoara, double room)

~10 euro (fuel – or less if we are more in the car)

+meals

+if we will be more than 4 persons the rental price of a microbus

If you have questions, you can contact me on my e-mail address cdandras99@yahoo.com

Please let me know if you are interested until July 1, 2010 – the time needed to organize it.

BIKING ALONG THE MIDDLE-AGE SAXON FORTRESS CHURCHES

The medieval saxon churches are actually lined up in villages lying relatively close to each other, linked mostly by quiet roads. Therefore they make a nice bike trip – which lets you not only get a glimpse at the Unesco listed churches but get a close look into the village life in Romania, which might be among the authentic things you rarely have the chance to see.

Green Mountain Holidays offers the complete tour of 11 days: http://www.greenmountainholidays.ro/activeholidays.html

For something shorter and more tailored to your needs you can contact the association Living Transylvania (for the phone numbers add 004 at the beginning): http://www.erdelytura.com/Main.aspx?PageCode=KAPCS&MenuCode=LM_MAIN&SMenuItem_LM_MAIN=KAPCS

(anything possible on demand)

(Possibly interested already: Gudrun and Patrick Van Impe)

GYILKOS TÓ (RED LAKE) AND THE BEKASI CROSSING

The Gyilkos tó (Red Lake) is quite a peculiar one as it somehow conserved the trees that once used to stand in its place. Therefore you can see branches coming out of the water, which makes rowing around in a boat quite a special experience.

Moreover this lake is at the “entrance” of a spectacular crossing of the Carpathians: the Békási crossing. Created by a tiny river, the crossing features great rocks with nice shapes and a paradise for the amateurs of escalade. The valley offers nice walks as well.

You can stay (for example) at the Gyilkosto Hotel and have great freshly prepared trouts in its restaurant. And then make the walks to the surrounding peaks for spectacular views. This is also a good basis to do a day-trip to the other side of the Carpathians to the famous Moldovan monasteries.

Another noteworthy spot is the Lazar castle near GYERGYO/Gheorgheni, which is hosting an exhibition of the best paintings created in the artist camp organized here every summer.

For an expert of the area offering sports, walking, trekking and horse riding trips contact: László Romfeld, romfeld11@yahoo.fr , Endorphin Sport Agency

http://www.endorphin.ro/en/one-day-tours.php

(Possibly interested already: Dirk and Nadine Coppens)